As hard as it was to leave Croatia, we were so excited to get back to Germany and start the next leg of our trip. We spent a few days back at the Beresch homestead, which Liam lovingly calls the farm, thanks to the sheep and chickens who live there too! It was lovely to have a few days to play and relax before venturing off on our own.
Being surrounded by farmland reminds me a lot of summers in Kentucky when I was a kid. We walked along the Danube and picked wildflowers, Liam helped gather the eggs for his breakfast in the morning, and the boys played soccer in the yard while I spent some time in my sketchbook. Pretty ideal.
For Liam, the most exciting thing about going to Munich was getting to see everything from one of his favorite books in person. For Ryan and I, it was getting to explore the city with bigger plans in mind… it’s our dream to someday make the big move abroad and live in Munich. We rented an apartment in Maxvorstadt, the university district, and had a direct view of the fine art campus. The neighborhood is filled with cafes and art galleries, bookstores and bakeries (these two got a lot of love from us on this trip!). It wasn’t hard to picture ourselves living there.
Our first full day was spent in the Kunstreal, the city’s museum quarter. We walked around the Glyptothek, King Ludwig’s personal museum of Greek and Roman sculptures, before heading to the Pinakotheken. We chose the Neue Pinakothek (18th-19th century; highlight was seeing Van Gogh’s sunflowers and Monet’s waterlillies) and the Pinakothek der Moderne (mostly 20th century). Liam amazed us and was a perfect patron- quiet, respectful, and interested in every piece. His favorites: every single statue, anything featuring animals, and a Picasso “Mutter und Kind” study that I can’t find a reproduction of anywhere! We could have spent a week going through all the exhibits, but when you’re dealing with a two year old you don’t press your luck.
It’s also an advantage that the museums are surrounded by large green spaces, so it’s not hard to take a quick break and get some energy out. Munich is full of parks and squares that are great for running amok.
Monday we took the train out to Allianz Arena for a stadium tour and Liam got a special treat- a personalized jersey! He chose the number 3 because that’s how old he’ll be on his birthday. Turning three is something Liam talks about incessantly… he’s already requested a blueberry cake and a new set of drums for the occasion.We spent our last day wandering around Marienplatz. We ate fresh-baked schmalznudel and raisin rolls for breakfast before taking an elevator to the top of the Rathaus (after climbing the bell tower in Croatia we were grateful for modern amenities!). Liam had a lot of fun pointing out the major landmarks from above, all of which he recognized from This is Munich. We had lunch and a final beer at the steps of the Frauenkirche and snacked on hot roasted almonds all the way home.
All three of us had a hard time saying goodbye… thank goodness we had a really good reason to get on that train to Paris!